By: Matthew Yurina, Sr. Mold
the mold from spreading into uncontaminated areas;
the dead mold and materials used for remediation; and
the cleaned out area against future mold infestations.
Drywall mold that
has high mold contamination are a major source of allergens and possibly
mycotoxins in the home. Drywall mold or black spots are generally due to water damage,
high humidity, or a leak behind drywall. Allowed to
go undetected or ignored can cause severe health problems and damage to a home or office.
Physical mold growth on drywall needs to be removed carefully, bagged and
disposed of. Standard practice is to cut the moldy material away up to three
feet from where the visible growth is. Thereís no safe and truly effective way
to both kill and clean up mold on surfaces like drywall.
The first step in any mold remediation effort is to acquire the proper
protective equipment: P100 respirator (to filter mold spores so you donít
breathe them in), gloves, goggles and disposable clothes that cover all of the
body. If disposable clothes are not available, then youíll want to ware clothes
that you can wash immediately after the project in the Oxy Mold Cleaner
product. In any enclosed area where youíll be spraying or fogging,
youíll need a
that will also protect against the chemical fumes of the fungicide youíll be
The second step would be to pinpoint the source of the mold growth and contain
it as close to that source as possible. In may be necessary to erect walls of
plastic sheeting to keep mold spores from spreading to uncontaminated areas.
The third step will be to use any method available to you to reduce humidity in
the moldy area and dry out all infected surfaces. OXY-MOLD MX-500,
along with all fungicides, will penetrate far deeper into dry surfaces than wet
ones. You may need to purchase a dehumidifier to get the humidity below 50%. Air
moving devices or fans may be appropriate if you take into account that you
could be spreading mold spores around. In a heavy mold infestation the idea is
to limit the amount of spores that get spread around, thus lowering the chances
of contaminating new areas.
Effectively killing mold in drywall is
The difficulty isnít necessarily that the surface mold canít be killed, but that
drywall is too porous to effectively kill the mold that has grown into and
through the drywall substrate, thereby presenting a hazard. The safest measure
will always be to remove the infected drywall, sometimes even up to three feet
in all directions from the actual visible growth.
The quickest, easiest and inevitably the cheapest way to fix the problem will be
to remove the drywall (carefully with a drywall cutter or similar blade that
will keep the spread of spores to a minimum), and bag it up securely in plastic
bags, or 6 mil polyethylene if thereís a great quantity. Once removed from the
house the bags can be taken to a landfill.
In most cases there is more mold growth on the inner side of the drywall that
cannot be seen, and it could even have contaminated insulation ceiling tiles and
studs. It depends upon the source of leak or moisture problem that caused the
mold, but usually thereís need for performing Mold Tests in
order to help understand the full extent of the mold contamination in a home or
office. While condensation due to humidity or improper ventilation may not have
caused too extensive of mold growth all the way behind the walls, actual water
or sewage leaks could significantly lessen the time it takes for the mold to
spread right through the drywall and into other surfaces.
Unless the moisture intrusion and the mold problem have been ongoing and
building up for a long period of time, the wood itself should be salvable. Even
on the studs youíll want to remove as much of the mold growth as you can. It may
also be necessary to apply the Impact once before physical removal of the mold
in order to lessen the spread of spores. If you have to cut more than a fifth of
and inch into the studs to remove the growth, the studs themselves will not be
salvable, as this will threaten the houseís structure. These studs would have to
be removed and replaced.
Once all removable mold growth is safely away from the area, itís time to apply
product twice to the entire infected area, letting the area dry for twenty-four
hours in between applications. In areas of small or limited mold infestation it
should be satisfactory to apply the Impact with a spray bottle or garden pump
sprayer, but in any heavy infestation (heavy = you can smell the mold), then
Fogger will be the only appropriate method.
A cold fogger will atomize the biocide, turning it into droplets of micron size
so that it can penetrate to the deepest roots of the mold and kill surface and
airborne mold and mold spores.
When airborne mold spores are involved another step will most likely be needed
to actually clean the dead mold spores from the air. Youíll want to look into
buying or renting a HEPA grade air mover that can filter the old, contaminated
air and remove it from the area while bringing in pure, uncontaminated air. This
will be necessary because even dead mold spores can be a health risk.
Once the project is completed it is in your interest to perform post testing
(clearance testing). This is the only way to be sure itís safe to reinstall
drywall, insulation, etc. The worst thing you can do is rebuild over an
unresolved mold problem. Youíll also want to make sure that the original
moisture problem is fixed. Once these tests prove clear, you can re-insulate,
rebuild, and repaint. The final application of a fungicidal sealant like
Anti-Growth can prevent mold growth for up to five years.
These instructions are general in nature, and there are always situations that
can make certain parts of the remediation more difficult. Feel free to contact
us by phone Monday through Friday, 9:00 to 5:00 Eastern Time if you have any
questions that our web site doesnít answer. Our biggest concern is that youíre
performing the mold remediation properly.
After the mold
remediation is completed, mold test (clearance testing) all of the remediated
surfaces plus the air of each room in the basement, and
the outward air flow from each heating/cooling duct register
to find out if those areas are now mold safe prior to rebuilding the cleaned out
areas with new building materials.
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Research, Inc. 2723 Brickton North Drive, Buford, GA 30518
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